New Orleans Day 3 -- A Pound of Butta & Napoleon

On our last day in New Orleans, we welcomed another perfectly sunny and warm day.

Kathryn had been talking, talking, and talking about the omeletes at Camillia Grill in the Garden District. Since the St. Charles Streetcar is still not running its full route, we hopped on the bus at Canal and rode it all the way down St. Charles Ave. to Carrollton. The Camillia Grill did not disappoint! All seating is classic lunch counter-style and you can expect a bit of a wait … but it's well worth it. Giant omelets made with lots of butter, french fries and shakes and waffles, and pie, to boot. The cooks and wait staff were friendly and efficient. This is a great diner-style breakfast stop well worth a short jaunt from the French Quarter, and you can hop the bus (or I image the St. Charles Streetcar which I'm sure will be up and running to Carrollton soon).

To get to the restrooms, you have to walk through the kitchen prep area. We discovered that you can also sit back there at a large prep table specially designated for dining! I know it sounds strange, but it seemed pretty cool and would be worth doing especially if you have a large-ish party with you.

Upon rolling ourselves out of the Camillia Grill, we decided to walk down through the Garden District and look at the many great homes dating back to the 1800s.


The Garden District itself dates to about 1806 and was laid out as a system of parks. The area was settled by the then-nouveau riche during the mid-1800s and offers some of the earliest Greek Revival architecture in New Orleans.

Some of the most common styles also include Italianate and Queen Anne Victorian. Apparently, after the Louisiana Purchase, Americans came pouring into New Orleans looking to cash in on trade.

Due to the friction with the current Creole residents, the snubbed Americans moved uptown and created their own neighborhood, the Garden District. A large number of the homes are still owned by descendents of the original owners, which I thought was quite interesting and unique considering how much Americans move around these days!

We walked through part of Audubon Park to see the giant live oaks growing in crazy directions everywhere. These are really amazing and oddly beautiful trees, and the park is worth a casual stroll or picnic for any visitor.

Do not ask how, but we somehow found ourselves back at Café du Monde eating again.

Beignets and iced café au lait this time around. I think we were already feeling nostalgic for New Orleans, knowing we would be leaving in a few hours.

I took more photos of the French Quarter and we made a point of wandering some new streets.

That's definitely something many visitors don't realize about the French Quarter: it's big!

You can always find a new street to explore, a hidden shop you never noticed, and great photo just waiting to be taken.

Dwelling markings from --->

Hurricane Katrina.

Our weekend trip to New Orleans had the most perfect ending with a little nibble and a drink at Napoleon House. Naturally, I had to have some red beans and rice, Sarah had some gumbo, and Kathryn tried the "other" muffuletta (this one is served warm versus the cold version at Central Grocery). While I had a glass of wine, Sarah and Kathryn had Pimm's Cups, which is one of the things for which Napoleon House is famous.

This is perhaps the most inviting, warmest establishments in all of the French Quarter. Its rough walls give it a sense of purpose and history -- which dates back 200 years.

New Orleans is much more than just a place to party. It's a wonderful place for friends and lovers, with excellent cuisine, good drinks, and plenty of parks, museums, and shopping.

Perhaps the single best thing you can do for New Orleans and its great citizens is to visit this special city. This was the first trip on which I really paid attention to the people who call Nola home.

They work hard every day, with a smile and a kind word, always on the ready to make recommendations and answer questions.

New Orleans relies on tourist dollars and since Hurricane Katrina, tourism is drastically down. The city derives a huge percent of its revenue for rebuilding, schools, infrastructure, social services and more, from what you spend at hotels, restaurants, and shops.

Come for a visit, pick up some local artwork, try a southern Creole dish you've never had, chat with shopowners, and listen to local musicians play in the clubs. You won't regret it!

*** P.S. *** Before heading on this trip, I was seriously considering taking a city tour that included stops to still-devasted areas, but I changed my mind. I recognize that while my tour ticket price ($60!!) supported the tour company (good), I doubted the residents of these areas would appreciate me coming through gawking at much of what appears to be slow or failing efforts by the government to rebuild.

Instead, I randomly came across the New Orleans Kid Camera Project, which is a program that puts cameras in to the hands of the city's children. The Project blossomed out of the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina, with the premise that art can help! I found many of these childrens' photographs very special and moving -- they're of everyday life and are frank and some are quite poignant. I chose to send what I would have spent on a tour ticket to this ongoing Project instead. And, I'm getting an 8"x10" print out of it, too!!

If you are interested in making a worthwhile donation to a fantastic little organization that is helping the kids of New Orleans, I'd like to recommend the New Orleans Kid Camera Project. For a $50 donation (you can also donate in any amount), you can select from one of four 8"x10" photographs. Currently, these are the only images available (I asked!), but they hope to have others in the future. Even if you don't make a donation, check out some of the incredible images taken by these kids. At the home page, click on 'Group Galleries' to see the many archives.

We say goodbye for now!

Back to Main New Orleans Page

ASPEN: The Prettiest Place Your Heart Loves

Following our short and fun stay in Denver, on Friday, we were off for Aspen. We were going to stay with some dear friends of mine who have been going to Aspen for over 30 years.

I've been to Aspen before, and have very fond memories of the town, so was beside myself with excitement to go back and to show off this little town to Owen, hoping he'd come to love it as much as I did.

On your very first visit to Aspen, the only way to arrive is via the scenic and sometimes death-defying Independence Pass. [If you want to know what it's like to drive in France's Luberon, look no further than certain stretches of CO-82.]

From Denver, just take I-70 west and at about the mid-way point to Glenwood Springs, you swing south and head for the Pass.

Naturally, you must make a stop at Silverthorne--outlet store heaven. These stores boast a great number of outdoorwear shops.

I dropped a nice chunk of money on cycling shorts. There is something quite wrong with spending a lot of money on an article of clothing that will make you much less attractive when you wear it. Yet, you plan on wearing it in order to become more attractive-looking in the long run. Ah, the ironies of life!
St. Mary Catholic Church on Main Street (left)

So, as you ponder the complicated nature of workout paraphernalia, you'll turn south on CO-82 and begin the trek over Independence Pass and on to Aspen. This is the point at which you'll realize you've never seen a sky so blue.

We arrived to Aspen in the early evening, parked the car (cuz you do not need a car in this town!) and wandered around just as the sun was setting. Everything was quiet and peaceful, with lilacs in bloom everywhere.

Aspen is a town you can walk from end to end on foot, with little paved footpaths around every corner. The Roaring Fork River runs through town, giving you ample opportunity to feel very zen in it's river roar! :)

Aspen was originally called Ute City and was a happen' silver mining spot in the 1800s. Several buildings, including the Wheeler Opera House, still remain from this time period. By the way, you can see shows and movies in the beautifully restored Opera House. [We saw 'Hot Fuzz' on Saturday night.]

This town offers everything -- laid back days walking local trails, hiking and biking the mountains, indulging in amazing arts and lecture programs such as those offered at the Aspen Institute and Aspen Music Festival, and of course ... skiing!


We spent a great evening catching up with my friends, having a late dinner, drinking wine, and chatting about all manner of things. We went to bed sleepy and happy with the sound of the river to lull us to sleep.

On Saturday morning, Owen and I headed off for a hiking adventure to Maroon Bells. I'd been telling him about Maroon Bells and was excited for him to see one of the most photographed spots in Colorado!

Snow-capped peaks sit high above Maroon Lake which was created by glaciers long ago. It's an amazing alpine spot, with a variety of aspens, evergreens, and wildflowers.

I mentioned how you can ride the local bus up to Maroon Lake. You put your bike on the front of the bus and then ride you bike back down to town. Owen found that concept entirely appalling, as he is an avid cyclist, and, um, likes to exercise. Me, the avid couch potato, found it entirely brilliant.

As it is still the early season, however, there are no buses and you can just drive your car to Maroon Bells. I thought I had gotten off the hook until Owen spotted a trail that disappeared up into the aspens.

So, that's how I ended taking a hike, through some snow, no less, to Crater Lake, which sits a few miles above Maroon Lake. [I was rather smitten with myself until a family with two hiking toddlers showed up.]

I'll admit, it was well worth the extra bit of sweat to reach Crater Lake. You're that much closer to the Peaks which are beautiful, dangerous, and awe-inspiring. And, come on, how many alpine lakes do you get to see? Not to mention being a great photo op ... see the slideshow!

We headed back to Aspen for lunch and a "training session" on a tandem mountain bike. We survived and no one fell. My friends, James and Betteanne, with whom we stayed, have been tandem cycling for over 15 years. It's actually beautiful to see them ride together. They're at such ease, holding a steady pace through all kinds of terrain. As a couple, it would be a wonderful passion to share.

With the weather being perfect, we dined outdoors at Mezzaluna Aspen, which offers up Italian dishes and a nice selection of wines in a warm and unpretentious atmosphere.

Sunday was another perfect-weather day. Owen went off on a mountain biking trek up Smuggler Mountain. It's a long tale, but involves something about getting lost, meeting a German, dragging his bike through some snow, and now having a good story tell. What more could a guy want?

My day involved a nap and a beautiful leisurely walk with Betteanne. It was a great opportunity for Betteanne and I to catch up and talk about life, relationships, and just anything else that came to mind.

Aren't these the conversations that connect us to one another? And, it's always interesting and comforting when you know that even if there are friends you don't talk to every day, you know you can pick up right where you left off.

You know they are there for you, and proud of what you are making of your life. And you ... you're so happy to have them as a part of your life.

Thank you, Betteanne & James, for spending your holiday weekend with us in my very favorite little town ... a place you introduced me to so long ago.

View of Aspen Mountain (left); Crater Lake (above)

Denver: To Stem or Not to Stem

Long holiday weekends are the perfect occasions to hop on a plane and catch up with old friends. When you can get airline tickets for $59 each way ... well, that makes the trip pretty much mandatory, right? God bless Southwest Airlines.

Owen and I arrived to Denver's sunny evening skies last Thursday, with a whole weekend stretched out before us! The friendly people at Hertz tried to "upgrade" us. That is code for "Let's give them the car we can't get anyone else to take." And, that car would be the HHR, a truly revolting mini-windshield ugly car. We actually drove it around the lot, reparked it, and went inside to decline the complimentary upgrade. The staff person said, "Oh, yeah, most people don't like that car." hhmmm. We ended up with a Mazda 5, which had nice, BIG windows .. which is just what you need when you are driving around Beautiful Colorado!

This is not "the" HHR we were given--just someone else's hideous HHR I found on the internet. What was Chevy thinking?

We headed out Highlands Ranch, a far south suburb of Denver to see my old college friend, Trish, and her family. I can still remember E-470 and Highlands Ranch from my younger years growing up in Denver. They seemed so far away from everything. Now, there's housing everywhere, outdoor shopping centers and asphalt cover the plains. It really gives you a sense of how fast Denver is growing.

There's always something lovely about seeing friends you haven't seen for a few years. When we arrived, Trish and her family were waiting and armed with plates of Gouda and brie, and fruit and wine! Being the old-school gal I am, I opted for a stemmed glass when offered "stemmed or not." My god, I now know in need to do away with my own mish-mash collection of wine glasses and, at the very least, get one matching set .... stemmed or not!

The next day, we were off to Aspen!